PARIS, France — In today's age of appropriation,
there are many designers who act more like curators than inventors of
new forms. They are closer to stylists or DJs in the way they work,
creating something new from an assemblage of existing pieces. Carol Lim
and Humberto Leon, creative directors at Kenzo, belong to this category.
(Of course, they rose to prominence as retailers, which is a form of
curating).
PARIS, France — “Nobility and misery” was the line that Miuccia Prada
fed journalists after her MiuMiu show in Wednesday. Nobility there was
in her reference to Gobelin, the finest tapestries of the 16th and
17th centuries, which appeared repurposed as bomber jackets and
maxiskirts, even jean jackets. And that was the clue to the third part
of the collection’s equation: fun. (The misery was clearly a conceptual
point because there was no evidence of it on the catwalk, unless you
count the apocalyptic undertow of her declaration, “Dressing is what’s
left.”)

